My Natural Nutrition System for Horses

People often ask me how I keep my horses so healthy and looking so fine.  Those of you who have seen them will agree that they are full of vitality, have great coats and hooves, and a high resistance to illness and infection.  I mostly model my feeding system after the one used by the Parellis, with a few adaptations to account for environment, climate and availability of products.

Basically, my horses only eat non fortified natural whole grains, forage and quality water, as well as chelated minerals in a balanced formula.  I don’t feed any commercial or processed feed.  The horse in nature has not evolved to digest oils, hydrogenated or animal fats or large quantities of sugar, and I have trouble understanding why they would need it and how that is adapted to their metabolism.  On the other hand, our cultivated soils are now very poor in minerals due to intensive agriculture, so it is important to give them a mineral supplement that is easily assimilated by their system, because those minerals are no longer present in cultivated forage or grain.

 My basic recipe: 

	Mix of whole oats and barley, in very small quantities, and only for horses in active training
	Black oil sunflower seeds, unshelled (contain fatty acids and natural plant oils)
	Cubed timothy and alfalfa in limited quantity, served soaked

I add:

	Chelated mineral mix, entirely natural and adapted to equids **
	Organic apple cider vinegar, unfiltered and unpasteurised
	A probiotic to help with digestion
	Clean grass hay

I give them as little grain as needed, because horses that eat too much grain may gradually develop digestive and metabolic problems.  Horses that are not in intensive training do not need grain.  Forage must be the largest part of their daily ration.  In fact, 10 to 15% of horses develop intolerance to corn, which is used in many commercial feeds.  In addition, a feeding system too rich in sugar and in carbohydrates causes a gradual degradation of the laminae of the hoof, which will manifest itself long before any acute phase or founder crisis.  Even if a horse never founders, the most recent studies show that laminitis is not only a condition that can be found in most domesticated horses, but that it can be attributed to an ill-adapted feed, too heavy in grain and sugar-rich forage that are not assimilated by the horse.  Sedentary lifestyles on soft and uniform ground are also a factor in laminitis issues.

Finally, my horses have access to certain free-choice minerals in little feeders installed in their stalls.  They can consume them as needed, according to changes in temperatures or their cycles, because the natural horse instinctively knows what it needs and will search for these minerals in his environment.  Without large spaces to do so, and since we can’t give them 10 000 acres to roam on, free-choice minerals replace the bark, moss, leaves and various plants that a natural horse consumes throughout the year to feed himself.

I also avoid most chemical products or remedies for my horses, and I have discovered that there are plenty of natural alternatives to take care of them, including for deworming and fly spray. 

** Note:  The Parellis have developed their own brand of minerals and supplements that are not available in Canada and that are different than the ones I use.  My mineral products of choice are chelated, completely natural, contain no preservatives or chemical additives, and have a very high rate of absorption by the body.

What Does a Horse Really Need?

Just like with everything else, as we evolved into the modern civilized age as humans, we seem to have lost our understanding of nature and what's natural for horses.  We think we are providing good care when we build them stables and box stalls, feed them processed foods high in protein and fats, vaccinate and deworm them several times a year, clean them and protect them from getting hurt.  Unfortunately, this type of horse care is built for the comfort of the human, not for a highly gregarious, nomadic and wild animal with a strong sense of survival.  Horses are one of the few mammals to have survived the Ice Age - they are highly adaptable and can fend very well for themselves in many environments.  They are very close to nature and although we have domesticated them, they are still basically wild at heart.  In every gentle horse lies a wild horse.  In every wild horse lies a gentle horse.  Horses are completely adapted to living outdoors in various weathers.  Their bodies are built to move constantly, to forage for food all day and to sleep very little.  They have mechanisms to adapt their coat and skin to the weather, to ward off heat and cold, and feet that are incredibly suited to a mobile lifestyle and provide traction, feel and temperature control to their bodies.

Stalled horses develop mental and emotional issues that often turn into mental illness, identifiable by vice behavior.  Horses in nature don't weave, crib, kick at walls, bite without reason, grind their teeth or pop their lips.  These are signs of deep inner trouble in a horse, a sign that even though he is being fed and cleaned, mentally, his needs have not been met and he is suffering greatly.

Horses are herd animals

Before anything else, they need to be in a herd, to socialize, to play with other horses.  This is where they find safety, comfort and play, which are their three main priorities in life (yes indeed, water and food come fourth).  Their survival in nature depends on associating and moving with a herd, and as a prey animal, they know they can't stay isolated without risking death.  It is inhumane to keep a horse alone or isolated from others.  Of course, if living together, they will play, and sometimes it will be rough, but this is how they establish the herd hierarchy and select a leader.  Kicks and bites do not bother them - being isolated drives them crazy and causes them to eventually shut down, to become aggressive or to develop displaced behaviors.  This is often all they can do to cope with the stress of living in a cage.

Horses need to move constantly

Horses are born fully functional, ready to walk, run, and graze.  Wild horses travel on average 20-30 miles a day over varied terrain to find food and water.  This keeps them healthy physically and mentally and exercises their muscles naturally. Their feet wear down as they travel and the constant blood flow to the hooves and legs keeps them sound and strong.  They only run if they sense danger or during short and intense play sessions, but as a rule, most of their time is spent walking with their heads down.  This is the natural position for the horse, head down foraging and stretching their backs.  They will eat small amounts constantly, not 2 or 3 big meals a day, which puts a huge strain on their digestive track.  They often will drink a large amount once or twice a day, since water is far.  They like to drink in pools and ponds on the ground, not in automatic waterers perched high on the wall.  Given a choice, they will choose to drink out of a bucket or ground water, because this is how they are designed to absorb water most comfortably and efficiently.  When we keep them in confinement, we impede the proper development and maintenance of their muscles, bones and feet, not to mention their minds.  If we take them out for an intense and concentrated exercise session after they have been standing still for hours on end, we put a sudden and extensive strain on their tendons and ligaments and this is how lameness and injury develops.  Horses should be kept outdoors in large enough spaces.  Ideally, a herd needs 10,000 acres to survive comfortably in nature.  Most of us cannot provide that much, but think of how little room a box stall or paddock offers compared to that!  Horses can find shelter from the elements in bushes and trees, and most horses will really only seek a shelter to get away from bugs or from very high winds.  Their coat adapts very well to protect them from the elements in winter and summer.  Horses that are kept outdoors 24/7 in a herd, with enough space to travel all day, without blankets, and fed naturally are the healthiest and happiest horses I have ever seen.  They do not have vices, they do not colic, their feet look great if they are barefoot and they are virtually immune to disease.

The barefoot horse

I choose to keep my horses barefoot and I have never regretted making the transition.  Their feet are the best they have ever been, even my 20 year old Thoroughbred which used to have bad feet and stumble no matter how she was shod.  I ride on all kinds of terrain - I have ridden them on rough rocky trails, up and down high mountains, in sand, on hard packed ground, gravel, snow and ice and have found that they are most sure-footed barefoot.  This is because they can feel the ground underneath them, and a properly trimmed bare foot offers them lots of traction.  My horses have rock crushing feet without shoes.  Horse shoes numb the feet and impede the expansion and pumping action of the foot structures, which in turn causes all sorts of hoof diseases and conditions such as thrush, laminitis, abscesses, heel contraction (which leads to navicular disease), white line disease, to name a few.  Hooves are incredibly functional if kept in a natural state, and if trimmed correctly and regularly by someone who understands the natural hoof.  They are also self-cleaning.  I view barefoot trimming as an integral part of a holistic approach to natural horse care.  Pictured on the right is my Appendix Quarter Horse's foot.

Equine dentistry

Because our horses rarely get to eat the way they would in nature, where they would chew on barks, mosses, hard weeds, plants, etc, and because they often only get fed soft foods and fine forage, their teeth will not wear evenly and need to be checked and floated regularly.  Horses' teeth will wear more evenly if they get fed on the ground because this is when their jaws are correctly aligned to chew.  Feeding them high in mangers or hay holders leads to uneven wear of their teeth, which produces more points and mouth ulcers; it also increases the risk of choking on food since both the oesophagus and trachea are open when their head is higher.  Think about it this way - in nature, they eat off the ground.  When they need air to run, their head goes up in the air to maximize airflow to the lungs.  I recommend the use of a good equine dentist if you can find one in your area, since equine dentistry is a specialty in itself.  I would not trust my regular doctor with my teeth, why should we assume our vets know what they are doing!  Most vets receive only a cursory training on horse's teeth while in school, and learn to indiscriminately float everything without much attention to details.  Sometimes it is the best we can do, since equine dentistry is not something that is currently well understood in Quebec.  Having had the chance to meet some truly qualified equine dentists, I can vouch for the difference they can make in a horse's comfort and ability to move and perform (tooth and jaw pain affects every other part of the body). 

An Ill Fitting Saddle Can Damage Your Horse's Health

This is a hot topic that generates lots of questions and sometimes, a fair dose of controversy.  I have many students who ask me to help them with this issue and are eager to learn more about it.  The more you advance your horsemanship and your knowledge of riding, the more you find out about your own needs and those of your horse, and then you realize how complicated finding the right saddle can be.  We can’t forget to look at the question in a holistic context.  Saddle fit has many aspects that complement each other:  the choice of a saddle, the choice of a saddle pad, the rider’s ability and conformation, the type of activity, the horse’s conformation, etc.  Unfortunately, it’s impossible to learn everything about it in a few hours.  It takes a lot of time, a lot of research and experimentation.  You have to ride many different horses and many different saddles, and then you start to understand how difficult it can be to find the right fit and the right product. 

The Parellis have been studying the question for years, and during my stays at the ranch, I was able to take advantage of their experience and of their advice.  The objective being to find a good saddle that maximizes my efficiency and facilitates the development of my horses.  Despite my experience, I have made many mistakes along the way, some of which were very expensive, and I don’t think the search will ever be completely over!  If this topic is on your mind, here are: 

A few basic tips 

First of all, your saddle needs to fulfill three conditions:

1.         It must be adapted to its function.  There is no point in buying a Western saddle if your main intent is to jump fences.  On the other hand, an English saddle will not be very useful if you want to be working cattle.  Some specialized disciplines require specialized equipment.  But if your main concern is trail riding or leisure, you have more choice and you can put forward the following factors first.

2.         It must be adapted to the horse’s conformation.  A horse that is uncomfortable or that is in pain will not be able to give you his best performance or all his attention.  Its reactions will vary based on the degree of discomfort:  it can be impulsive, or on the contrary, refuse to go forward; it may develop a short and stiff gait; it could have a sour attitude while ridden (flat ears, hard eye), brace its back and neck, or in some extreme cases, buck.  A saddle must be wide enough to allow the horse full freedom of movement.  It must not interfere with the motion of the shoulders and shoulder blades; it must not create painful pressure points on the horse’s back or withers; it cannot be too long if your horse is short-backed; and so on.  Did you know that a majority of saddles on the market are too small or too narrow for an Arab?  Imagine if you are riding a stout Quarter Horse or a big Warmblood!

3.         It must also be adapted to the rider and allow you to stay in a balanced position.  In Level 1, you learn about finding your balance point.  What happens if you can’t stay on your balance point?  Your saddle may be the problem.  Some saddles constantly throw the rider forward, or may be too small to allow the rider to use his lower back effectively.  In some cases, it may just not be made to allow you to easily and comfortably stay in the right position to be in balance.  You may surprised to learn that many riders ride in a saddle that is too small for them!  Could it be an ego thing or a way to compensate for a lack of balance? 

Be prepared to pay a substantial price for a good saddle.  There are no miracles:  a cheap saddle cannot be made correctly.  On the other hand, expensive does not mean that you necessarily have a good quality or well-fitting saddle.  I have owned some very expensive saddles, made with great quality materials, that hurt my horses and that in the long run, seriously compromised their posture, the muscling of their backs and their joints.  Even a custom-made saddle can be a bad fit, because saddles are often made after measuring the rider, not the horse.  If the horse is measured, it’s most times done while it is standing still.  Obviously, you won’t only be riding at a halt, and let’s face it:  its shape will change when it is in motion!  It will need more space to move its shoulders, and to use its back and hindquarters correctly. 

The quality and the functionality of the saddle pad also play a role.  Some saddle pads do not cushion the pressure points caused by the saddle, or in some cases, cause more pressure, which can add to the horse’s discomfort and pain. 

If you ride more than one horse, you may not be able to have one saddle that fits all.  It is possible to use a good saddle for a wide variety of different horses, but it must be wide enough to fit a majority, and you have to pair it up with a good saddle and pad system that is flexible enough to adjust to fit the different horse conformations. 

If possible, never buy a saddle without trying it!  Preferably, see if you can try it on your horse.  It must fit you, but it must fit your horse too.  It is very difficult to judge the fit without at least a trial.  Most serious vendors will give you an option to try a saddle.  If it is not possible, at least attempt to obtain the saddle’s measurements, to check if it has at least the potential of fitting your horse.  Critical measurements for saddle fit are the length, the width of the tree and of the gullet, and most important, the shape or profile of the underside of the saddle. 

There are ways to check if a saddle hurts a horse.  One of them is to look at the saddle mark left on the horse’s back after a riding session.  Dry spots indicate areas where there is too much pressure.  White hairs (often just behind the withers) show areas where there has been so much pressure that the hair grew back without color.  Shuffled hairs spots show areas where the saddle or pad are rubbing or causing friction.  The horse's posture, muscling and attitude are also good indicators, if you know what to look for and develop your 'eye'.  Below are comparative diagrams illustrating the results of bad saddling (in red) and what can be expected with a good saddle fit (in green).

I’d like to know more! 

Linda Parelli has evaluated numerous saddles that are available on the market and she was disappointed in most of them, so she decided to design her own.  Part of the information developed by Linda on Saddle Savvy is available in the new Level 2, and you will find more information in the Savvy Times magazine (for Savvy Club members) and on the Parelli Web site.

At my students’ request, I can organize a discussion and demo session on saddle fit.  We can take the opportunity to compare different saddles, to try them to feel the differences, and we can sometimes also demonstrate different saddles on different horses.  The horses often show dramatic changes in posture and attitude when we change the fit of the saddle they wear. 

Conclusion 

It’s important to remember that buying a saddle, which is often a major investment, deserves great care and thought.  It’s worth doing some research, talking to professionals and considering all the factors involved.  A good saddle will last you a lifetime, and will allow your horse to be comfortable, which means he may be more attentive, less emotional, more willing and perform better.  How else would you be able to reach harmony? 

My Natural First Aid Kit

I try to treat my horses as naturally as possible and I have found that they tend to stay healthier and happier that way.  My horses are rarely sick, they are rarely lame and they only see the vet for annual check ups, teeth and Coggins test.  This is what I usually keep around for emergencies or first aid care:

A thermometer and a sheet with the information on checking vital signs.

Natural clay, already mixed and ready to use - great for swelling, abscesses, bug bites, bruises, aches and pains, and can be fed diluted to treat stomach ulcers.  It is also a natural antiseptic that can be used on wounds.  I use Bentonite, but natural green clay is also excellent.

A photonic torch - this is a incredible tool that I use all the time, for prevention and treatment.  Photonic therapy was developed by an Australian veterinarian, Dr. McLaren, and works on the same principle as acupuncture.  Instead of stimulating the points with needles, he uses a ray of red light.  It is effective and cannot harm the horse.  I have successfully treated a large number of wounds and conditions with the photonic torch, including colics and pain.  I also use it on my horses on a regular basis as a preventive treatment to ward off illness and boost their immune system, as well as to optimize the energy flow through their bodies.  You will find a link to the Photonic Therapy information in the Links section of the site.

Colloidal silver - to treat wounds, infections, cuts, scrapes and can be fed to help the immune system.  It can also be used to treat eye conditions.

Tea tree oil and tea tree oil ointment - great for all kinds of things.  It has natural antiseptic and healing properties and can be used on cuts, scrapes, skin disorders, scratches, mud fever, sores, etc.

Calendula cream for cuts and scrapes, and arnica gel for bruises and localized swelling.

A probiotic - very useful to help the gut during stressful events,  before and after vaccination, while travelling and to help a horse who is having digestive trouble.  I also feed a small amount daily to help them with the digestion and assimilation of their food.

Vitamin C - used to support them when they are feeling sick, fatigued, have a cold, and a number of other conditions.  I have not used antibiotics on my horses for years.

A colloidal trace mineral solution - used to dry out a cut or reduce bleeding, to help with healing and can be fed internally to support healing.

Organic apple cider vinegar - fed daily to promote health, good digestion and good skin, and also used to make fly spray, other solutions or to spray on skin that is dry, flaky or has some kind of condition.  It can also be sprayed on feet and added to water (it prevents the growth of bacteria and algae).

Scissors, diapers and duct tape - to wrap feet if necessary.

Sterile gauze, cotton and pads - for cleaning or to apply solutions or ointments without contaminating wounds.  I rarely wrap anything, it does better if it can drain and clean itself out.

Essential oils - I am still learning about the use of oils, but I have found all sorts of use for them.  I allow the horse to smell the oil and let me know if they need it.  Bergamot and peppermint are great in fly spray.  Lavender is good for the skin.  Some mixes can be used to reduce pain, help digestion, etc.